Here at HELLABULLYKENNELS we set a specific price pertaining to the order of the puppy pick that is selected. Everybody has their own preference in what they look for in a puppy. Some can base their decision on solely the markings of the pup, size, bone, color, etc. With that being said, it will be hard for HELLABULLYKENNEL to choose which one is first and which one is last. In order to guarantee you choosing the one you want, higher pick would be preferred. Males and females are set apart from one another.
|available 1st pick 5000||Sold 1st pick 5000|
|Sold 2nd pick 4000||available 2nd pick 4000|
|available 3rd pick 3000|
|available 4th pick 2000|
Puppy price are different per breeding. Contact Us
Example: 6 puppies in a breeding. 2 males and 4 females. Let’s use the female picks for this example.
The person that has 1st pick female will choose first out of the 4 females available, A B C or D. If the person who has first pick, picks Female C, Second pick female can choose from A B or D. Third Pick female will choose after second pick and last pick would take whatever is left.
Puppy Selection are at the 7th week
A $1000 deposit is required to reserve a puppy pick. Deposits are non-refundable but transferable to any other breeding or stud fee. Full balance is required by the 6th week.
Puppy selection will be on the 7th week.
A puppy contract needs to by sign to lock in a puppy pick.
CLICK HERE: PUPPY CONTRACT
SHIPPING A PUPPY
We will gladly ship your pet to you via airline for a fee of Approximately $500 for a puppy. This includes the carrier, Health certificate & Flight fees. Adults for sale, or older puppies can be shipped, however depending on weight price may be slightly higher contact us for a shipping quote on older puppies & adults.We follow all usda regulations for pet air travel & will not ship your pet if we or the airline feel the temperature is too hot or too cold for the puppy in either area. If them temperature is too hot or too cold, we may still be able to ship via staffed climate controlled vehicle. See below for more information.
All puppies are required to be atleast 8 weeks old in order to ship and must be fully weaned.They ship in a marked kennel such as this one approved by Airlines .
Your actual Kennel may vary slightly but will be similar. We will call you a week in advance in order to tell you the puppy is ready to be shipped & make arrangements that best suit your needs to ship the puppy to you. We cannot guarantee a specific day or time as airlines may deny shipping the puppy. Once we agree on a rough arrival estimate we will call the airline & try our best to fit it into your schedule .
Once we have a confirmation day & time we will call you and let you know when you can expect your new puppy, and email you tracking information. We highly recommend that you be prepared before hand with the necessary items you will need for your puppy before he/she turns 8 weeks old . We will email you the week prior to the puppies arrival with information on the type of food they are eating , how to order their vitamins, etc. we will also supply you with samples.
Ear cropping is a surgical procedure that involves removing part of a dog’s ears, causing the cartilage to stand erect. It is popular for numerous breeds of dogs, including pit bulls. Owners might decide to crop their pit bulls’ ears to give them their signature appearance, which was established centuries ago when pit bulls were primarily used as fighting dogs. Ear cropping also is referred to as docking, otoplasty and ear trimming.
- Originally bred for bull-baiting, pit bulls historically had their ears cropped to prevent damage to them during a fight. Nowadays, ear cropping is mostly cosmetic, carrying on the tradition of the “alert-eared” pit bull.
- Battle crop is the shortest ear crop available. However, because this type of crop cuts the dog’s ears really low, it does not allow much protection from insects or debris.
- Short crop is the second type of ear crop. It is a little bit longer than the battle crop. This crop leaves about two-thirds of the original ear.
- The show crop is one of the most requested ear crops for pit bulls. It is a medium crop and gives the dog an overall alert look.
- This is the longest ear crop available for pit bulls. This type of ear cropping leaves about three-fourths of the original length of the ear.
Before you get your ear cropping!
Please do some research before you get your puppy’s ears cropped. Find an experienced veterinarian that has done ear crops. When done properly, the ear cropping procedure is relatively safe and trauma free. However, there have been cases where our new puppy owners had horrible cuts done due to an inexperienced vet or even worse even loss their pups. If you decide to crop your puppy’s ears please spend the time to research first. Please make sure your puppy is healthy prior to ear cropping procedure.
Best Age for Ear Cropping:
The optimal time for cropping a puppies ears is between 8-16 weeks old. When they are done sooner they heal better and have less difficulty standing erect. However, ears can be clipped at other ages as well. Older dogs can be cropped on a case to case basis.
Ear Cropping is available for an extra $250
This is an amendment to the basic standard which a Pocket Bully is determined by its adult height. Males under 17″ and no less than 14″ at the withers. Females under 16″ and no less than 13″ at the withers.
Important to note that Pocket Bully variety is simply shorter than the Standard American Bully. Pocket Bully dogs share the same build, body type, and breed type as the Standard American Bully, and are not to be penalized for exhibiting heavily muscled, massive, bulky body type.
This is an amendment to the basic standard which a Classic Bully is determined by its body structure and build. Both sex dogs with lighter body frames and less overall body mass, but still exhibiting “bully” traits.
Example of Bully Traits – Blocky/heavy heads; short/square muzzles; heavier bone, muscle, and compact body. Overall more bone and substance than the modern and more “terrier type” American Pit Bull Terrier and American Staffordshire Terrier.
Classic Bully to give the appearance of bullier, old style American Pit Bull Terriers and/or American Staffordshire Terrier, which made up the origin of the American Bully.
Classic Bully variety is simply an American Bully dog having lighter body frames (lighter bone) and less overall body mass (less substance) than the Standard American Bully. Aside from this difference, the Classic Bully variety follows the same standard as the Standard American Bully.
Males under 17″ – 20″ at the withers. Females under 16″ – 19″ at the withers.
Standard American Bully
The American Bully should give the impression of great strength for its size. It is a compact and medium/large size dog with a muscular body and blocky head. The American Bully should have the appearance of heavy bone structure with a bulky build and look.
The American Bully is a companion breed exhibiting confidence, a zest for life, along with an exuberant willingness to please and bond with their family, thus making the American Bully an excellent family companion. Despite the American Bully’s fierce and powerful appearance their demeanor is gentle. They are great with kids, and extremely friendly with strangers, other dogs, and other animals. Human or dog aggression, extreme shyness, or viciousness is very uncharacteristic of the American Bully and is highly undesirable.
- •The distinct heavy, large and broad head of the American Bully exemplifies breed type.
- • Medium in length, deep throughout, broad skull, well chiseled with very pronounced cheek muscles, distinct and deep stop.
- • Ears- Set high and can be either natural or cropped.
- • Eyes- All colors equally accepted except albinism (pinkish to red) which is a disqualification. Blue eyes, lack of pigment around the eyes are undesirable.
- • Eye shape is oval to almond shape, low down in skull and set far apart. Round eyes are undesirable, and bulging or protruding eyes are a fault.
- • Visibility of the haw should be minimal.
- Faults: Overly visible haw. Both eyes not matched in color. Bulging or protruding eyes. Disqualifying Faults: Albinism eyes.
- • Muzzle- Short-Medium in length and broad in width. Length to be shorter than the length of the skull with distance from the tip of the nose to the stop approximately one- third of the distance from the tip of the nose to the occiput; but not so short as to interfere with normal breathing. The muzzle is blocky or slightly squared to fall away abruptly below eyes. The topline of the muzzle is to be straight with nose neither pointed nor turned up in profile.
- • Jaws- well defined.
- • Under jaw- to be strong and parallel to muzzle, never turning upward.
- • Lips- semi close and even, minimal looseness accepted but not preferred.
Faults: Muzzle too long or snipey; muzzle so short as to interfere with normal breathing; lack of pronounced cheek and deep stop; weak under jaw; under jaw turning up; nose turning up or pushed back; excessive flews.
- • Upper Teeth- to meet tightly outside lower teeth in form or scissor bite.
Faults: Level bite, overshot bite, undershot bite and wry bite. Serious Faults: Severely overshot or undershot bites, measuring 1/4 inch or more.
- • Nose- Large with wide open nostrils. All colors/pigment acceptable except albinism (light pink in color).
- • Heavy, muscular, slightly arched, tapering from shoulder to back of skull. Compact to medium size should have minimal or no loose skin.
Faults: Neck too thin or weak; neck too short or too long.
- • Shoulders to be strong and muscular with wide blades set wide; and well laid back. The upper arm is approximately equal to the length of the shoulder blade and joined at an angle of approximately 35 to 45 degrees.
- • Forelegs- straight, strong, and sturdy with large or round bones, pasterns are strong, short and nearly erect. Feet- straight forward.
- • Distance from the withers to the elbow is equal to the distance from the elbows to the bottom of the feet. Dogs that are slightly shorter in distance from the elbows to the bottom of the feet are acceptable but not desirable.
Faults: Upright shoulders; steep and forward scapula (shoulder blade). Upper arm too short. Feet toeing either in or out; front legs bowed; down at the pasterns; splayed or flat feet; long toes.
- • Heavily muscled, massive bulky body type of compact/medium length giving the impression of great power for its size and exemplifying the breed type of the American Bully.
- • Ribs well-rounded creating a barrel chest with all ribs close together; rib cage to extend to the elbow or slightly below.
- • Forelegs set rather wide apart to permit chest development.
- • Chest- should be broad, deep, and well filled in; but should not be exaggerated as to interfere with normal movement.
- • Fairly short to medium back, slight sloping from withers to rump or straight accepted with gentle short slope at rump to base of tail. The American Bully should give the appearance of a square body, equal in length when measured from point of shoulder to point of buttocks and from the withers to the ground.
Faults: Back too long; rear higher than withers; weak or swayed topline; roached or wheel back.
- • Well muscled, let down at hocks, turning neither in nor out.
- • Muscular development, angulation and width of the hindquarters should be in balance with that of the forequarters.
- • When viewed from the rear legs are to be straight and parallel.
- • Croup should have a slight downward angle.
Faults: Hocks turning in or out; cow hocks; sickle hocks; narrow hindquarters; straight or over-angulated stifle joints; bowed legs.
- • Medium in comparison to size, low set, tapering to a fine point and extending approximately to the hock.
- • When relaxed tail is to be carried low. When moving tail is carried level with the topline or in a raised position when excited (challenge tail), but should never be carried curled over, breaking the plane of the back (gay tail).
- • Tail to be clear of any kinks, knots or any curvature.
Faults: Tail to long or too short approximately up to an inch above or below point of the hock. Gay tail (carried over the plane of the back). Serious Faults: Kinked, knotted, or fused tail. Extremely short tail. Disqualifying Faults: Screwed, bobbed, or docked tail.
- • Should be rounded and of moderate size in proportion to the dog, compact, well arched and tight.
Faults: Splayed or flat feet, long toes.
- • Short, glossy, close, stiff to smooth to the touch.
- • Coat no longer than ½ inch in length.
Faults: Curly or wavy coat. Serious Faults: Long coat.
COLOR AND PATTERN
- • All colors and patterns are permissible except the pattern merle.
Disqualifying Faults: Merle pattern
- • Dogs should be healthy and should NOT reach the point where it is considered obese.
- • Weight- There is no particular weight for the breed.
- • Height and weight should be in proportion of the body frame.
- • Height-Please see Variety Amendments.
- • All varieties to exhibit “Bully” characteristics and breed type traits as described in the American Bully Standard, which are key elements of breed type for the American Bully breed.
STANDARD AMERICAN BULLY
Males under 20″ – 17″ at the withers. Females under 19″ – 16″ at the withers.Important to note that the Standard American Bully dogs are not to be penalized for exhibiting heavily muscled, massive, bulky body type.
- • The American Bully moves with a confident and proud attitude, while keenly alive and alert to its surroundings.
- • Gait should be effortless and powerful. The action must, be unrestrained, free and vigorous with powerful drive off the rear. Front reach should be moderate and in balance with the rear.
- • Legs turn neither in nor out, nor ever cross or interfere with each other.
- • Dog moving on the same plane – Each leg moving in the same plane shared with the other leg on the same side with minimal convergence.
- • Backline should remain level, with flexing to be very slight.
Faults: Rolling; pacing; sidewinding; hackney action; paddling or pounding. Not moving on the same plane; legs over reaching; legs crossing over in front or rear; rear legs moving too close or touching.
Faults to be penalized but not disqualifications for showing are:
- • Both eyes not matched in color
- • Overly visible haw
- • Bulging or protruding eyes
- • Muzzle too long or snipey
- • Lack of pronounced/deep stop
- • Weak underjaw
- • Underjaw turning up
- • Albinism nose (light pink)
- • Nose turning up or pushed back
- • Tail too long or too short (approx. 1″ from point of hock)
- • Curled tail (gay tail)
- • Level or flush bite
- • Overshot or Undershot bite
- • Wry or cross bite
- • Neck too thin or weak
- • Neck too short or too long
- • Upright shoulders; steep and forward scapula (shoulder blade)
- • Upper arm too short
- • Severe turned fronts (in or out)
- • Bowed front legs
- • Down at the pasterns (weak pasterns)
- • Splayed or flat feet
- • Long toes
- • Hocks turning in or out; cow hocked
- • Curly or wavy coat
- • Movement: Rolling, pacing, sidewinding, hackney action, and paddling or pounding
- • Not moving on the same plane – legs over reaching, crossing over in front or rear, or rear legs moving too close or touching
Faults to be heavily penalized but not disqualifications for showing are:
- • Severely overshot or undershot (1/4 inch or more)
- • Kinked tail
- • Twisted tail
- • Knotted tail
- • Fused tail
- • Overly Short tail
- • Long coat
- • Displaying or possessing aggressive behavior towards humans
- • Pink or Albino eyes
- • Merle pattern
- • Unilateral or bilateral cryptorchidism (missing one or both testicles)
- • Unilateral or bilateral deafness (deafness in one or both ears)
- • Screwed tail
- • Bobbed tail
- • Docked tail
This is an amendment to the basic standard which a XL Bully is determined by its adult height. Males over 20″ – 23″ at the withers. Females over 19″ – 22″ at the withers.
Important to note that the XL Bully variety is simply taller than the Standard American Bully. XL Bully dogs share the same build, body type, and breed type as the Standard American Bully, and are expected to carry a heavily muscled, massive, bulky body type.
Timing of breeding
The aim is to identify when the progesterone level reaches 2.5 ng/ml so the mating schedule can be set up, or the veterinarian and owner of the male dog can be notified that they should be prepared to collect and ship a semen sample. Depending upon the type of semen used, optimal times for natural or artificial insemination are:
- Natural breeding should occur 3 days after the 2.5 ng/ml mark. Sperm in fresh semen survive 5-7 days after insemination.
- Artificial insemination using fresh chilled semenshould be used for a 1-time breeding. Insemination should take place 4 days after the progesterone reaches the 2.5 ng/ml mark or 48 hours after the 5 ng/ml mark. Sperm in chilled semen survive 48-72 hours after insemination. With artificial insemination, the semen should be deposited into the cervix to increase the chance of it being drawn into the uterus.
- Artificial insemination using frozen semen should be performed 5 days following the 2.5 ng/ml mark or 72 hours after the 5 ng/ml mark. Sperm in frozen semen survives less than 24 hours after insemination. Frozen semen is ideally deposited directly into the uterus through surgery to increase the chance of pregnancy.
Fertilization and implantation
The sperm require a period of approximately 7 hours after ejaculation before they are capable of fertilizing an egg. This period is referred to as the “capacitation time.” The egg also needs time to mature after it is ovulated, generally 48 hours from ovulation until it can be fertilized. Fertilization occurs in the oviduct (Fallopian tubes) regardless of the method of insemination. The fertilized egg then travels into the uterus but does not implant until 17-18 days after ovulation. If there are problems with the lining of the uterus, the egg may not implant or the placenta may not grow or be maintained. A normal placenta grows into the lining of the uterus. If implantation does not occur or the placenta does not grow normally, the fetuses are resorbed.
Progesterone levels during pregnancy and whelping
After ovulation, progesterone concentrations continue to increase for 2-3 weeks, finally reaching 10-80 ng/ml. This level is necessary to maintain a pregnancy. In the dog, the progesterone level will remain at this level for about 60 days whether or not the dog is bred, and whether or not she is pregnant.
About 48 hours before whelping, the progesterone level drops to the 2 ng/ml range and within about 24 hours of whelping, the level drops to the 1 ng/ml range. This can help determine the proper timing of a c-section, especially if the progesterone level or LH level were not used to determine the ovulation date. By correctly determining the whelping time, it can prevent puppies from being taken by c-section too early and thereby decreasing their chance of survival.